11th September - Galle to Uda Walawe
We were up at 6am today to ensure we had enough time to pack up our suite and get our last gourmet breakfast in. We met our driver and he showed us to his car. A Nisson Sunny, we were expected something a little nicer but at least it has air con. However, a little down the road we noticed his wheels buckled and we are going to be jiggling the entire time - not fun.
The first half of the journey was pretty uneventful then after about 2 hours the rice paddys started opening up to jungle. We drove alongside the national park and were taken to the elephant orphanage in time for feeding the babies. This cost 500 rupee each to enter. We stood around the enclosure and a heard of baby elephants were let in all in all a good 50 elephants. One even had a fake leg so he lived in the enclosure whilst the others roam around during the day. The keepers feed the babies milk through giant funnels straight into their mouths. They were all nudging each other out of the way to get more milk.
Our driver then took us to a hotel he recommended which was basic and bug ridden still at £35! O well it's only for 1 night. We had lunch at the hotel then got picked up by a Land rover for our safari in Uda Walawe National Park. At the entrance we picked up a 'free' tracker/guide to spot animals for us. The entrance fee was a bit of a joke we had to pay:
- for the driver - local adult fee 60
- for us - 2 foreign adults fee 3890.70
- something random 250
- a service charge 1037.52
- VAT 628.59
- TOTAL 5866.81(about £30)
Then on top of this we paid 6000 rupee for the jeep, another £30 plus tips for the tracker and the driver which they expect you to pay.
We drove onto the dusty path and the first thing he spotted about 20 minutes in was an eagle sat on the floor. Then onto a dried out lake where some buffalos were cooling down.
Driving through the bush we saw lots of peacocks and more buffalos. Further down the path we saw some macaques in the trees with their babies.
Then what we came here for ... elephants!! Firstly, we spotted single elephants through the trees which was pretty impressive.
Then we drove out to a massive clearing where some jeeps were already parked up with about 10 elephants around the jeeps. Our driver crept up a bit too close for our liking and turned off the engine so we could watch the them.
After they had cleared we went off and found a solo spot where the elephants were feeding and from behind them emerged a little baby! As they got more relaxed with us being there they came close, literally about 6ft from the car! They are mesmerising to watch!
We drove around finding more and more elephants seeing probably about 100 throughout the day. The tour lasted 2 hours and we were taken back to our hotel. There was nowhere else around the hotel so we had to eat here settling on a club sandwich then back to our insect ridden room.
12th September -Uda Walawe to Nuwara Eliya
After an awful nights sleep, worrying about all the insects in the room, we woke early and sat down to breakfast at 8am. Nothing like Jetwing Lighthouse, no buffet or 3 course fine dining meal, we had a few slices of fruit, toast and a plain omelette. We set off in the car at 9am. Today's drive was absolutely beautiful right up in the mountains round windy roads. The roads here are in an amazing condition which is unexpected. Shaun is dreaming about riding a motorbike around the windy roads. Today's drive took 4 hours, probably would have been quicker had our driver gone above his average 30km/p/h. We passed through Ella which is renowned for its beautiful waterfalls, we were able to stop at one on the way. Even here you have to pay Rs50 to park.
This area is also very agricultural and they grow everything here from tea to vegetables which are primarily exported. We wound round to the stunning Lake Gregory where Nuwara Eliya is based. The climate here is a lot cooler, we even put a jacket on at midday.
The driver found us a hotel which unfortunately is based a fair trek from the rest of the restaurants. We tried to explain that we wanted to be closer to the restaurants but they couldn't understand so we took the room anyway. It is called the The Royal Hotel and we agreed on Rs7000 B&B, still ridiculous. The room is basic with 2 beds pushed together, a tv with only Sri Lankan channels and a basic wetroom. We went off in search of the restaurants which were only '1km' away but after 40 minutes we gave up and had lunch from a bus which turned out quite nice and cheap at Rs350 each.
We thought we would take a walk around the very manicured lake on the way back but you have to pay. It said Rs50 but apparently foreigners have to pay Rs200 so we refused (it's only £1 but we we're getting sick of paying a foreigners premium so we walked back along the road). My blonde hair and blue eyes are standing out a lot more here with a lot of stares and people shouting out of windows, I guess there are less foreigners coming through central Sri Lanka.
We chilled in the hotel for a few hours in the afternoon which is something we haven't actually done since we've been in Sri Lanka and it is only now I am writing the entire blog catching up on the last 12 days. During the evening a freezing cold fog swept in quickly so we resigned to staying in bed to keep warm.
13th September - Nuwara Eliya to Kandy
Last night was so cold we barely slept even having put on all the warm layers we had (which is not a lot as we were expecting only warm climates). I woke up to find Shaun huddled up in his jacket with his hoody up! This is so unexpected after spending the last week constantly sweating even with the air con on. We set off at 9am again today and it was another beautiful journey. 25km in we stopped at Mackwoods tea plantation. The plantation was founded in 1841 and now has over 1000 workers.
Winding round the roads all you see for miles is the Mackwoods sign (trying to copy the Hollywood sign)as it covers over 1000 acres.
A lady gave us a quick tour around the factory but they were having a power shortage so it was rather uninteresting. They did however offer us a complimentary cup of tea which is exported as English Breakfast Tea. They even make a special blend for the Queen.
Then on to the hotel, The Ancient House, which is ok for Rs7000. It is based on Kandy Lake opposite the Temple of the Tooth. We dropped our bags and walked around the lake stopping for lunch at a local cafe. Shaun was buzzing with the vegetable rottis for Rs30 / 14p! The whole meal cost less than 4 pounds, just shows how much they usually add for tourists. We walked round to the Temple of the Tooth which is basically a temple built to house the sacred tooth relic of the Buddha. Legend is that whoever has the tooth relic rules the land. As always, you have to cover shoulders and knees and this time they caught out Shaun in his shorts. He had to hire a skirt which was covered in flowers much to my amusement!!
We went into the temple for Rs1000 each (locals go free) and looked around.
Inside houses a taxidermised elephant which is huge and is known as Maligawa tusker who carried the golden casket which help the tooth for over 50 years. The elephant was actually declared a national treasure.
The monsoon then hit and we had to walk around the grounds bare foot (as you are not allowed shoes in the temples) and hide out for a while.
On the way back we went to the supermarket, which is always interest in foreign countries! Walking back around the lake we spotted lots of wildlife; lots of fish, a few terrapins, lots of birds and a giant lizard. Whilst watching the lizard a bird shat on my head. Instead of helping, Shaun starting taking photos of me. Then it shat on my face. We ran back for a shower!
In the evening we couldn't be bothered to walk around the lake to the restaurants so we had dinner at the hotel and a bit of Discovery Channel in English! The hotel were very accommodating turning on english tv and cooking us a giant curry just for the two of us. One thing we love about Sri Lanka is the people, they are very accommodating. There is still no beer here!
14th September - Kandy to Negombo
We woke up to monkeys running around outside our window trying to steal food! We had an 8.30 start for a 4.5 hour drive back to Negombo where we started.
We actually arrived an hour early! It was quite an emotional goodbye to our driver; we got to learn quite a lot about him (apart from his name but you know when it gets to that point where it's too late to ask!) and the Sri Lankan way of life and we gave him 1000rupee tip which is about a fiver but he was ecstatic about it!!
We didn't want to go back to Goldi Sands so we tried to bargain with Jetwing Blue for a room only but they didn't do it! So we bargained some more as we would need a 4am pick to the airport and would not be worth paying the money for breakfast. They finally agreed on $100 for the night. We were shown to our room in the old side of the building. The room was really nice, if a little old and damp but it was about a 2 step leap from our porch door into the pool. However, the pool was a bit gross, the other side of the hotel is newer and a lot nicer.
We had some lunch at the hotel and of course our final curry at Lords and a BEER!
A La Perchoine
Jodie & Shaun
xxx
